Bolt on Independent 2

BOLT ON INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION

So your looking for the easiest and least expensive method of updating your suspension. Well here's the information required to perform this swap.

Special Thanks to Jon C Peters for locating and supplying me with this Article. He States:

The only article I saw on this was in American Rodder and it really wasn't a tech article...... However I've done this on 2 trucks a 51 and a 53 Chevy. The spacers I used were 1/2" thick for the saddle, idler arm and the steering sector. The 73' through 87' c10 2 wd trucks (through 89' suburban) will work. the difference between the early and the late is the steering sector (box) went metric in 81' (threads on power steering hoses). You might have to go with negative offset (AKA g10 van type) wheels. On one truck I did on the other I didn't go figure.

I WOULD LIKE TO RECOMMEND THE FOLLOWING BEFORE YOU LEAVE THE WRECKING YARD

1. Take a magnetic protractor and place it on the upper A-arm "close to where the shims are or on the cross member and take a reading so when you bolt your unit on it's in the same relationship "ANGLE" as the factory set their units to help with alignment.

2. Take reference measurements from the donor frame regarding the distance the holes for mounting the steering box and idler arm are from the cross member. What I recommend is to unbolt the steering box and idler arm, then lay some poster board over the frame in these locations so you can trace the bolt pattern onto the poster board. This way you can transfer the pattern onto the spacer blocks before mounting them to the AD frame and you'll have the exact distance they need to be from the cross member.

3. Don't forget to take a steering column home with you along with the shaft connects the column to the steering sector. Be sure to try and not disturb the rag joint or you'll have to purchase a replacement. The shaft will be short when connecting it up to the AD because the distance from the steering box to the column is greater on an AD truck but what you can do sometimes is drill out the two plastic plugs on the steering shaft and this will allow you to extend the shaft to meet the steering box. Be sure to make sure theirs adequate over-lap between the two shafts when this is done.

4. If you selected a disc brake unit, it's probably wise to update to power disc brakes and that means either a firewall unit or using the existing pedal and ordering an under the floor unit.

5. If you select a power steering box unit go ahead and take the power steering pump, hoses and brackets. I would take everything I could so that when I was home and I needed something, I already had it with me and didn't have to make another trip.

CHECK LIST BEFORE I LEAVE THE WRECKING YARD

2 patterns on poster board paper of bolt spacing for steering box and idler arm.
1 note page with angles and distances of components
2 upper shock mounting studs
1 steering box with steering shaft, rag joint ( be sure to save the bolts that connect the rag joint to the steering box shaft)
1 steering column with all wiring connectors and switches
1 power brake unit with proportioning valve unit
1 unbolted suspension cross member complete
1 sway bar with frame bushing clamps

****** REMEMBER THIS SUSPENSION IS A 5 LUG TRUCK BOLT PATTERN AND YOU'LL BE WANTING TO UPGRADE THE REAR END TO THE SAME PATTERN AND NOW'S THE TIME TO PICK ONE UP ********

BEGINNING THE INSTALLATION

1. Place the truck on a level working surface.
2. Level the truck and place it on jack stands.
3. Remove the front suspension by unbolting the springs from the hangers and other items so you can roll it out complete.
4. Remove the spring hangers, shock and brake line brackets and the original engine mounting bracket.
5. Mark the outside of the frame with a vertical line 20 3/4" measured from the front of the frame.

This distance is not set in stone and can be adjusted forward or back a little to place the tire within the fender opening at the desired amount.

6. Mark the donor suspension axle centerline.

The axle centerline is the centerline of the axle when looking down it from the side. 6. Line up the two centerlines to install the cross member. Install the spacer plates for the cross member.
7. You can use the shock upper mounts from the donor truck to install the new shocks or the stock brackets.
8. Use the patterns to make the mounting plates for the steering box and Idler arm.
9. Trial fit the front clip and modify the wheel well to clear steering shaft with an oblong hole.
10. Mount the sway bar for proper suspension operation.

If your changing over the rear end at this time refer to my rear end information section to determine how to set the rear end pinion angle and install the perches. The rear end section also has the information to measure for a new drive line.

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