Remote Entry for shaved handles using stock components and a hidden switch

WIRING:

Yellow Wire:     Connects to positive battery post or battery terminal of key switch.
Gray Wire:        Connects to terminal of hidden toggle switch and terminal of Bosch relay.
Black Wire:       Connect to ground.

The toggle switch can be a (spst) unit.  The toggle can also be a momentary on/off switch of your choice.

Since the relay is wired with full time B+ current meaning that when ever the toggle is activated the door will open, I would recommend the toggle is placed in a location that doesn't allow easy access or is shielded by some means to prevent accidental contact.

LIST OF MATERIALS:

• Actuator purchased from Ball's Rod and Custom  "I'll include a link to them" Minimum pull of 25 lbs.
• Pulley guide was purchased from a local hardware store and is actually a guide roller for a screen door.  The center has a hole that allows it to be bolted to the door panel and the outer roller rolls on roller bearings "depending on the type you acquire".
• Wire is just plain wire from the hardware store.  In place of the open cable, one time I just used a bicycle shifter cable and just held down the cable at the location where the pulley would have been located with a metal clamp and screw.
• The ends of the wire were held on to the actuator and lever with aluminum crimpers called Ferrules I'll check and update this if it's different.
• Bosch relay
• Solder less connectors
• In line fuse and holder
• Toggle Switch (SPST)  The switch should be able to handle at least 250 ma or (1/4 Amp).

GM STEERING COLUMN SIGNAL WIRING HELP

I drew the schematic with all the colors that correspond to the factory wiring in a General Motors connector.  If you look closely at the connector you'll notice letters next to each terminal starting from "A" to "P".  The wiring for the signals starts with letter "G" which HAPPENS TO BE THE BLACK HORN WIRE.

You will not be using the BLACK AND PINK WIRES IN THE  BEGINNING  OR THE CONNECTOR BUT LEAVE THEM THEIR AS THEY WILL NOT HURT ANYTHING.

Note:
If your just running regular 1157 bulbs in the rear you can normally just purchase some 4 strand trailer wire.  However, if your planning on some Halogen brake lights your might want to increase the wire size to at least 12 ga. due to the added load. Don't forget to add a relay into the circuit from the brake switch to the column connector to reduce the load on the brake switch to extend it's life.  .
 
 

HEADLIGHT SCHEMATIC

EARLY STYLE CLAMP ON SIGNAL UNITS

7 Wire Signal Switch Unit:

The brake light switch feeds current through the signal switch to operate the desired signal while providing the opposite side with a brake light illumination.

This signal switch comes with a single filament bulb within the housing to provide the operator with a visual indication of the signals being in operation.  This bulb receives it's ground through the signal housing which means the housing needs to be provided with adequate grounding on the column.

 
 
 SPECIAL NOTICE***************

 I've received several e-mails about the red indicator light on the signal housing staying on.   I've found that newer style flasher units are redesigned and cause this problem.   Switch to a 522 flasher to cure the problem.

Well,

Here's another one of those bells and whistles for the Ole Truck!

Nobody likes to climb into their vehicle after a long hard day at work or play and have their vehicle not start due to a dead battery caused by the headlights being left on.

I wasn't going to add this one to the website but I was reading one of the many magazines I subscribe to and they showed a rather complex wiring schematic for a HEADLIGHT WARNING BUZZER.   The article was well written and all but I thought to myself.....Hey, I wire those things up all the time and all I use is a two wire buzzer from radio shack!

I will list both just for comparison so you'll see what I mean.
 
 

COMPLEX VERSION:

Basically this system operate on the following principle.

When the ignition switch is activate, the internal coil of relay #2 is energized and no current reaches the buzzer so no sound is heard regardless of headlight positon.

When the headlights are on, the internal coil of relay #1 is energized and battery current is passed through relay #1 to relay #2.  If the key is off then current flows through relay #2 to sounds the buzzer.  If the key is on then relay #2 is energized and no current reaches the buzzer.

It's as simply as that!

List of Materials:

a)  2-bosch relays single pole doube throw (SPDT)
b) 12 volt buzzer
c) Solderless teminals
d) Electrical wire
e) Board to install components
 

SIMPLE VERSION:

This unit will work on all other vehicles including imports and only contains two wires.  The Red lead connects to the "hot" wire going to any parking, side marker or instrument panel lamp.  The White lead connects to the ignition post of the key switch or any wire that has juice only when the key is on.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Switch OFF all electrical items including ignition switch.

2. Connect the red lead to any parking light or dash light bulb wire.

3. Switch the headlamps on and touch the white wire to any other fuse until the buzzer sounds.

4.  Test:  Buzzer will only sound if lights are ON and ignition is OFF.  Turning ignition key ON will silence the buzzer.

5.  Mounting:  I often just attach some velcro to the bottom of the buzzer and stick it under the dash out of sight.

ELECTRIC FAN WITH RELAY: